29 Jul 2007
Buying Estate Engagement Rings: What You Need to Know
If you’re in the market for an engagement ring, you could stand to save a lot of money—and pick up a unique antique ring—by buying an estate engagement ring. If you’re looking for an estate antique engagement ring, here’s an overview of what you should know before you head to the auction.
What is an “Estate” Engagement Ring?
An estate engagement ring is sold at an estate auction. Usually the previous owner is recently deceased. Estate engagement rings can be authentic vintage pieces—dating back fifty years or more—but they aren’t always. Some are younger than fifty years old, which means they don’t fall under the category of “vintage” as used by jewelers.
Before Buying: What to Look For
Be aware that when you buy an engagement ring from someone’s estate, you’re buying a used ring. The ring may be tarnished and need care—so don’t be too hasty to judge it on its initial appearance. A valuable heirloom may be waiting beneath the wear of time.
However, because it’s used, you must be careful when buying an estate ring. Ask questions before committing to buying an engagement ring at an estate sale. Some important questions to ask include the following:
- Has this ring been altered at any point in its history?
- What is its period and age?
- What is the history of the stone?
- Is the stone genuine?
- What is the ring’s ownership history?
When inspecting an estate heirloom ring, make sure the settings aren’t loose. This can happen during a lifetime of use, and will require a professional jeweler’s help to fix. Platinum can wear off over time, and gold bands can thin over decades of wear as well.
Be Aware: Potential Problems
Families should get rings inspected and certified before sale, but they don’t always take this step. Despite the best intentions, the family may give you misleading information about an heirloom engagement ring. If there is a legend built up around the ring—or if the family assumes the diamond is genuine but does not have it inspected—the ring can be overpriced.
In addition, the family’s knowledge of the ring’s history may not be complete. They might believe an engagement ring truly does date from the Victorian era, for example, when the ring is in fact a replica.
If you have some knowledge of antique jewelry, you should be able to tell which engagement rings are truly vintage and which are vintage-style replicas. For example, the brilliant-cut method did not exist prior to the 1920’s; so a true vintage diamond will have a flat surface on the bottom. A diamond with a point on the bottom is probably not a genuine antique.
The band may also give away the time period. Most Victorian rings were made of yellow or rose gold, but it’s very rare to find a true Edwardian ring with a yellow gold band.
No matter your knowledge of vintage jewelry, however, it’s important to have an estate ring authenticated by a legitimate third party verifier. In America, the place to turn is the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or the American Gemological Society (AGS).
In Europe, the Hoge Raad voor Diamant (HRD), meaning “Diamond High Council,” is a common choice. The European Gemological Laboratory (EGL) is also legitimate, although their standards are often believed to be less strict. Internationally, the International Gemological Institute (IGI) is also available.
If you’re looking for a one-of-a-kind engagement ring with a meaningful history, an estate engagement ring may be the best choice for you. But be sure to inspect the ring yourself, have it appraised by a jeweler, and ask for a certificate of authenticity from one of the well-known third-party institutes before buying.
Brownsack
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